Year in Review: Food and Travel Writers' Favorite Trips of 2024
Our favorite writers share their most memorable trips of the year, covering everywhere from Baltimore to Bismarck to San Diego.
Welcome to the weekend! Here’s what you’ll find in this week’s newsletter:
Food and Travel Writers' Favorite Travels of the Year: We asked some of our favorite food, drink, and travel writers about their favorite American trip of the year, along with the best thing or place they ate there. From spicy salami sandwiches in St. Louis to doughnuts in Martha’s Vineyard, their stories will inspire wanderlust as we head into the new year.
December’s Featured Field Guides: This month, paid subscribers will have access to all our current Field Guides. We have guides to destinations such as New Orleans, Nashville, Boston, Ann Arbor, and much more. All are available as a complimentary download through the end of the month.
Weekend Reading: Dillon Stewart talks Cleveland pizza, Food & Wine’s Restaurant of the Year,
shares her favorite wine bars in Philadelphia, and a classic tiki bar reopens in Florida
To keep up with America’s dining scene, we read everything we can get our hands on — every national food, drink, and travel magazine; local newspapers and websites; and tons of newsletters. As we looked back at 2024, we got curious about the destinations, restaurants, and bars that some of our favorite writers loved this year, so we reached out to ask them. From coddies in Baltimore to brats in Wisconsin, fried chicken in New Orleans to pizza in Cleveland, everyone had a delicious year. Add these spots to your 2025 list, and please share your favorite trips of the year in the comments.
GABRIELLE ROBINS
New York, New York
“Without a doubt, New York City. It’s the best food city in the U.S. — you can visit countless times and always have a completely different experience with the incredible variety of fantastic restaurants to try. The best place I ate was Altro Paradiso. Every single dish was phenomenal, from the fennel salad to the arancini and pastas. It’s my favorite type of cooking: simple, elevated dishes made with best-in-class ingredients.”
ROBERT SIMONSON
Baltimore, Maryland
“Our favorite trip this year was to Baltimore. We went because I'd never spent any quality time there, despite the fact that it's very near to New York and I've passed it on the way to D.C. a million times. It seemed like an oversight. We stayed at the Ulysses Hotel, a beautiful boutique hotel that is run by the same people who run the wonderful Peter & Paul in New Orleans. You can feel the deep history in every block of the city and we spent a lot of our time going to old-school bars and restaurants like Attman's Deli and the Mt. Royal Tavern. That said, the best eating we experienced was at a relatively new place, Dylan's Oyster Cellar in the Hampden neighborhood. We went there to check out their version of the classic Baltimore snack, coddies, but would have happily stayed to eat anything else on their menu, in which every item was tempting. The cocktails, too, were good. If I lived in Baltimore, I would go to Dylan's every week.”
ROLANDO PUJOL
New Orleans, Louisiana
“I’ve been working on a book about my travels, The Great American Retro Road Trip, and I spent much of the autumn of 2024 traveling during every free moment, oftentimes taking ambitious late-Friday-to-early-Monday road trips covering an unfathomable amount of terrain. This is incredibly fun work, if an incredibly exhausting workout. So why not be a little indulgent with the treats?
On this particular trip, I flew into New Orleans on a Friday night, and after 12 painfully short hours in NOLA, I set out across Louisiana to Lafayette, then turned north to spend the night in Texarkana (the Texas side). By the subsequent evening, I was in Memphis, Tennessee, staying right off Beale Street, having covered a swath of Arkansas earlier in the day. The final night was spent in Nashville, Tennessee. I really don’t mess around on road trips.
I saw a staggering amount of the South on this trip, with some major bucket-list spots checked off, like a few Frostop drive-ins; America’s last Borden Ice Cream retail store; the haunting quiet of Texarkana bathed in the warm light of an early Sunday morning; a payphone that’s a national landmark (and still works!); the wonders of Nashville’s Loveless Cafe, which, contrary to the name, is full of love – and scrumptious fried chicken and pies; and a dancing neon Elvis at the Days Inn down the road from Graceland. Did I mention the gigantic Baskin-Robbins ice cream bucket? Now I did, and there’s so much more I'll share on my Substack and in my book.
I enjoyed many wonderful meals (and milkshakes!) on this trip, but if I had to choose my favorite, I would nominate the sublime hamburger I consumed at 3 in the morning at the Clover Grill in New Orleans. I was so tired, and not a little overwhelmed by the carousing crowds on Bourbon Street. I was also famished, the packets of pretzels I’d consumed on the flight from LaGuardia woefully insufficient to carry me to dawn. My plan was to shoot Clover’s storefront, so simple and so beautiful, with one of the nicest vintage Coca-Cola privilege signs in the nation. But it looked so warm and inviting through the window, and the reviews were so good, that I slunk in, claimed a stool, and asked my new best friend sitting next to me what I should have. The hamburger, I was told. And I had it, and it was one of the best I’ve had. Feeling satisfied, I was carried by a second wind to keep exploring the streets in search of neon until sheer exhaustion finally drove me back to my hotel for a cat nap before picking up my camera again.”
JED PORTMAN
Bismarck, North Dakota
“In early March, my fiancée, Liz, and I took a weeklong road trip through both Dakotas. Among the culinary highlights was the knoephla soup in Bismarck, which was one of the reasons for the trip. (I was working on a recipe for Serious Eats.) I'd only recommend visiting North Dakota in the winter — even the late winter — if you're into frozen landscapes and willing to spend most of your time bundled up, but there's no better time to appreciate the gravy-like comforts of cream-fortified dumpling soups.
My favorite bowl in the Bismarck area came from a spot that wasn't initially on our list — Brick Oven Bakery, recommended by a bartender at the local fine-dining institution Pirogue Grille. Brick Oven is best known for its naturally leavened breads, but the chewy knoephla dumplings in its rich, vegetable-heavy version of the soup were equally impressive. For the record, the runner-up bowls came from Huckleberry House, a creative New Midwestern restaurant on the Missouri River, and Rolling Hills Restaurant, a 24/7 truck stop diner off I-94 in Mandan.”
ARI BENDERSKY
Traverse City, Michigan
“I visited a number of American destinations in 2024 — Charlottesville, Virginia; San Francisco; and Napa to name a few. But the surprising standout had to be Traverse City. Arriving as fall colors hit just shy of their peak, the four days driving around the area nestled between Lake Michigan and Grand Traverse Bay proved to be a magical experience. I had no idea the natural beauty we’d find. From hiking Sleeping Bear Dunes (in the rain no less) and visiting numerous gorgeous wineries including Shady Lane Cellars and Black Star Farms to biking around Boardman Lake (part of the TART trails network) and exploring Grand Traverse Commons (a former asylum), and so much more, Traverse City was a total surprise and absolute gem of a trip.
The best thing I ate was the kabocha squash agnolotti at Modern Bird. This quaint restaurant just off downtown owned by two Chicago culinary veterans — Andy Elliott (GT Fish & Oyster) and Emily Stewart (Bang Bang Pie, Boka) — delivers sophisticated rusticity and this dish exemplifies that. The pillowy agnolotti filled with of-the-season tender sweet squash in a broth of smoked mushroom and topped with crunchy hazelnuts, fried sage, and preserved lemon offered comfort in a bowl. Paired with glasses of kerner — we did a side by side comparison of local Left Foot Charley and Abbazia di Novacella from Alto Adige — hit right on the money.”
JOLENE HANDY
Kenosha, Wisconsin
“I stayed close to home this year and my favorite trips this past summer were weekends up at my brother and sister-in-law’s lake house in Wisconsin about an hour north of Chicago. It was definitely ‘Brat Summer!’ and by that I mean bratwurst from Lake Geneva Country Meats and The Brat Stop in Kenosha that we grilled outside and put on hard rolls or buns with mustard and washed down with PBR. We ate outdoors looking at the lake — it was perfect.”
LIZ COOK
San Diego, California
“I’m a die-hard Midwest regionalist, but I have to admit that I loved visiting San Diego this spring. It’s easy to love — the enchanting tide pools, the fry-stuffed Cali burritos, the over-the-top tiki bars (False Idol, Mothership). Still, my most magical moment might have been searing my own steak kebab over the communal grill at the Turf Supper Club.
The Turf is a 1950s-era steakhouse that oozes retro charm while still feeling current. It’s loud, it’s cheap, it’s lit like a photography darkroom, and the clientele is as crusty as the steaks. You can splash out for a ribeye, but your best bet is to sidle up to the communal grill with that teriyaki-marinated kebab ($14) and a slab of gratis garlic bread the size of your forearm.
I’ve been to plenty of mid-century steakhouses and dive bars that could be credibly described as ‘time capsules.’ The Turf reminded me that a piece of living history doesn’t have to feel dusty.”
SHAYLA MARTIN
Martha’s Vineyard, Massachusetts
“My favorite American trip is probably my same favorite trip that I take every year, which is to Martha’s Vineyard each summer. Something about that island and the beautiful natural surroundings soothes my soul, plus there’s an amazing amount of Black history and Black excellence, especially in Oak Bluffs. We went in August and got to attend a few screenings for the Martha’s Vineyard African American Film Festival and that was so fun. The single best thing I ate there is something I wait for every year, the enormous apple fritters from Back Door Donuts. They are the size of your face and warm, gooey and delicious.”
BRAD THOMAS PARSONS
St. Louis, Missouri
“My favorite trip of 2024 was four days in St. Louis, where I officiated the wedding ceremony of two of my dearest friends, Mike and Ali. I hadn't been back since an overnight in 2010 when I drove cross-country from Seattle to Brooklyn and pretty much only had time for a concrete at Ted Drewes, but I more than made up for it with a food- and brewery cat-filled itinerary to occupy my free time from official wedding-related activities.
My first stop was Gioia's Deli on The Hill, St. Louis' longstanding Italian-American neighborhood for a late afternoon lunch. Gioia’s opened in 1918 and was honored by the James Beard Foundation with an America's Classics Award in 2017. I was with the soon-to-be bride and groom and another out-of-town wedding guest and we had around 10 minutes before they closed for the day but I had pre-gamed my order on the flight from New York: their original hot salami sandwich.
I doubled down and ordered the hot salami and roast beef combo with Provel (called "St. Louis Cheese" on the menu), horsey mayo, oil, and vinegar on warm garlic cheese bread with a side of jus, accompanied by a bag of local Old Vienna of St. Louis chips and an ice-cold bottle of Fitz's Root Beer.
It was as glorious and messy as it sounds. I came up for air after eating half and wrapped the remainder in foil to serve as a midnight snack back at the hotel. I made it to a lot of other great spots, but I returned to Gioia's every day I was there, including the morning before the wedding and on my way to the airport to arm myself with hot salami variations, regional chips, and Saran Wrap-ed squares of sea salt caramel Rice Krispie treats. The wedding was a beautiful affair, but so was that hot salami sandwich. 'Til death do us part indeed.”
KARL KLOCKARS
Guys Drinking Beer
New Orleans, Louisiana
“If we're stretching the definition of ‘year’ a bit, my wife and I decided to go rogue last Christmas and ditch the usual family festivities to spend nearly a week casually bouncing around New Orleans. I managed to line up meals at Commander's Palace, Shaya, Cochon, Casamento’s, and Pêche; drinks at Beachbum Berry's Latitude 29, Bacchanal, Brieux Carré, the Spotted Cat, Avenue Pub, Parleaux Beer Lab, and Bar Tonique among others (and way too much time at Erin Rose).
It was wonderful because everyone else in town was doing the exact same thing we were, and while it didn't feel like we had the city to ourselves, it was definitely a time spent with a lot of like-minded debaucharists. Is that a word? It is now.
Without a doubt my most anticipated meal of the trip was to Compére Lapin, which paid off completely. We stumbled in on a rainy Christmas Eve to find a gracious staff, delicious drinks, and the best bite I had on the whole trip: fried chicken with coconut grits, peanuts, and jerk honey butter. I had to try the famed curry goat but my wife ordered this dish and it was a riot of flavor, richly textured from the crisp fried batter to the pillowy grits and a surprise pop of tart citrus to brighten it up and pull it all together. Hands down the best mouthful of food (or two) I stole off her plate all week.”
MICHAEL WILLIAMS
Cleveland, Ohio
“As a resident of Los Angeles I've learned to strongly dislike the fall in California. So this year I made a point to try and spend as much of the month of October as I could on the east coast. One stop on this tour was to my hometown of Cleveland, Ohio. I was reminded of just how much I love being there when the leaves start to change and there's a chill in the air. I went to some Cleveland classics like the Cleveland Museum of Art, the Westside Market, and the Rowley Inn. The best thing I had was the seriously good pizza (and a Negroni) at Il Rione Pizzeria — which I would put up against any pizza in California.”
What was your favorite trip of 2024? And what was the best thing you ate there? Let American Weekender readers know in the comments!
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OHIO
Why Cleveland is a Pizza Town:
isn’t the only person talking up the pizza scene in Cleveland. “It’s time to embrace Cleveland as a great American pizza city,” writes Dillon Stewart in Cleveland Magazine. “From legacy pies to elevated newcomers, the chefs in front of our ovens are as devoted to their craft as our diners are to their favorite neighborhood and downtown shops.” We met up with Stewart in Cleveland earlier this year and joined him for a couple pies at Vincent Morelli’s Cent's Pizza & Goods. The pizzas were excellent. Consider Cleveland embraced.CALIFORNIA
Soul Food and ‘Grandma Energy’: Food & Wine recently named Burdell in Oakland, California as their Restaurant of the Year. “Chef-owner Geoff Davis cooks soul food in a bright and modern way, catapulting it into the future,” Raphael Brion writes. “With reimagined classics (like the hearty okra stew, superb smothered pork chops, or robust barbecue shrimp made with Worcestershire, brown butter, and a housemade fermented hot sauce), the food at Burdell is grounded in the past, forward-looking, and brain-meltingly delicious.”
PENNSYLVANIA
Philly’s Wine Bar Scene Is Thriving: “Philadelphia’s wine landscape had long lagged behind its celebrated restaurants, held back by a tangle of state restrictions and red tape,” writes
in Food & Wine. “In the past several years, though, thanks to a few small but impactful tweaks in the laws — and more importantly, a growing crop of dynamic winemakers, sommeliers, and next-generation drinkers clamoring for something better — a flourishing wine scene has taken root.”FLORIDA
The Mai-Kai Reopens: “The Mai-Kai softly reopened partially last weekend to invited friends and family,” writes Laine Doss in a November post on Broken Palate. “Though the main dining room, gift shop, and tiki gardens are not open yet, its Molokai Bar welcomed guests for the first time in four years. In addition, a new outdoor patio bar opened and a 10-foot-tall volcano was installed.” Great to hear that such a classic tropical spot is back in business.
— Compiled by Kenney Marlatt
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Great post and thank you so much for including my summer!
Thanks for having me in the lineup! Happy Holidays.